Ceridwyn writes: Each day, I started where I left off, usually by a wayside marker, with a bright yellow scallop shell pointing its rays in the direction i needed to go. The number of km is also on the marker. It was so great to see it drop from 115km t0 99 to 83 and down to 49- over half way. The markers have been erected by the Spanish government and are such a welcome sight.
I would take a stone from the pile and feel the companionship of others who had walked before me. Sometimes I came to two paths and would not know which to follow – no way marker, no sign post. then I would see a yellow arrow painted on the lamp post, or on the tar seal. in Pontevedra, they were painted on the rubbish bins, so I just followed the signs.
Occasionally I tried to see ahead and got a bit nervous as there was no indication, but once I got a bit closer, there would be a little yellow arrow- I said over and over, ‘just trust there will be a sign when you need it!’ a hard thing for a person who likes to have the whole road map, and be in charge- nothing like that on the Camino. Accepting the kindness of others and trusting there will be a sign are two big challenges for me.
If there is no yellow sign, there are these big way side crosses, often decorated with flowers, marking this ancient path. And always if there is a church spire, the path will head in that drection. Around churches are stone seats , tables, often a spring, and a shady tree for pilgrims.
Rosemary writes: each day is falling into a rhythm, we deliver Ceridwyn to her start point in the car, then explore or relax in our lovely stone cottage, and then we pick her up about 4pm – usually in a bar along the way. I am chief cook – so I prepare a meal while Ceridwyn unwinds in the fabulous tiled bath we have.
I am enjoying getting back into cooking again and Portugal food is very meat focused. Lonely Planet says Portugal is not the place to be if you are a vegetarian, and Ceridwyn is – mostly. So I shop at markets and enjoy preparing lovely salads and pasta meals.